Annapurna Circuit Trek

An early departure from Kathmandu by private jeep along the Marsyangdi River valley, passing through the market town of Besisahar — the official start of the Annapurna Circuit — and continuing to Jagat (1,340 m). A short afternoon walk explores the village and its traditional stone houses draped in drying chillies and corn.

The trail follows the Marsyangdi River through dense sub-tropical forest, gaining elevation steadily. After Tal (1,700 m) the valley narrows dramatically and we cross several footbridges suspended above waterfalls. Chame (2,670 m) is the administrative headquarters of Manang district — a good place to stock up on snacks and check the latest weather forecast for Thorong La pass.

Today's highlight is the first spectacular close-up view of the Annapurna massif from the 'Annapurna viewpoint' above the trail. The valley is curved like a giant horseshoe, with conifer forests on the lower slopes giving way to alpine shrubs. We aim for Upper Pisang (3,300 m) — a traditional Tibetan-influenced village with a monastery perched on the cliff — rather than the roadside Lower Pisang, for far better views and atmosphere.

The trail splits above Pisang: the upper route via Ghyaru and Ngawal delivers panoramic views of Annapurna II (7,937 m), Annapurna III and Gangapurna. We traverse this spectacular high path before descending to Manang (3,519 m), the largest village on the Circuit and a mandatory two-night acclimatisation stop. The Himalayan Rescue Association holds free altitude sickness talks every afternoon — highly recommended.

Rest and acclimatise. A morning hike to the viewpoint above Ice Lake (4,600 m optional) reveals the full Annapurna panorama including Gangapurna Glacier. Back in Manang by early afternoon for rest, rehydration and the HRA altitude lecture. The evening offers hot showers, a proper espresso and excellent apple pie from the deservedly famous yak-cheese bakeries.

Crossing the high Annapurna plateau we pass Yak Kharka (4,018 m) and Thorong Phedi (4,450 m) before a final steep climb to High Camp (4,925 m), the last lodge before the pass. An early night is essential — most trekkers set their alarms for 04:00 to depart before sunrise and avoid the fierce afternoon winds that can sweep the pass. Check boots and crampons this evening.

The summit day of the Annapurna Circuit. Departing at 04:00 by headtorch we make the relentless 491 m climb to Thorong La (5,416 m) — one of the world's highest trekking passes. The sunrise from the prayer-flag-festooned summit is unforgettable, with Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri flanking the horizon. The descent to Muktinath (3,760 m) is long but exhilarating, dropping through dramatic cliffs and scree into a completely different landscape: the arid, wind-sculpted Mustang rain shadow. Muktinath's sacred temple complex welcomes Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims alike.

Descending the Kali Gandaki Valley — the world's deepest gorge — we pass through Kagbeni, the medieval gateway village to Upper Mustang, and continue down the broad, windy valley floor to Jomsom (2,720 m), the regional hub with an airport. Afternoon winds in the Kali Gandaki are legendary; we walk briskly and keep sun-goggles close. Jomsom is famous for Thakali cuisine: buckwheat pancakes, mustard oil lentils and local apple brandy.

A short 20-minute mountain flight from Jomsom to Pokhara (subject to weather) descends through the Annapurna foothills. Arrival in Pokhara — Nepal's adventure capital — feels like a shock to the senses after days of remote wilderness. The lakeside Phewa Tal reflects the Annapurna range; cafes and spas line the promenade. The afternoon is entirely yours: kayak on the lake, visit the Peace Pagoda or simply sit in the sun with a cold Everest beer.

Either a scenic 6-7 hour drive along the Prithvi Highway following the Trishuli River gorge, or a 25-minute domestic flight to Kathmandu (flight recommended if budget allows). On arrival the farewell dinner marks the end of the Annapurna Circuit — one of the world's great trekking routes. Certificates are awarded and your guide shares photographs from the journey.